SEED CARE AND GERMINATION
Many of my valued customers have requested information on the best way to germinate daylily seeds. There are many methods but below is the method I use and feel gives me the best results in percentage of germination.
First a word about storing seeds. When you receive your seeds, check each packet for any condensation or mushy or moldy seeds. If you see condensation in the packet open it and allow it the seeds to dry before storing it in the refrigerator. If you see any traces of mold, remove all seeds and remove and discard any moldy or mushy seeds. If a seed has gotten a little mold on it, it may not be too late to save it if it is nice and firm and still has weight. Wash the seeds that are still viable thoroughly and place on a paper towel to allow them to air dry overnight. Check for firmness before putting seeds back in a new packet for storage. (If you don't have any of the little plastic packets handy, you can go to any crafts store or even WalMart and get small amounts of the plastic packets that are used to store craft beads and pieces). I personally recommend rolling them in a powdered generic fungicide such as you can get at WalMart, Lowe's or your local feed & seed store before placing in the new packet. If you are storing your seeds over the winter in your refrigerator, take them out about once a month and check the packet for any seeds that may be going bad. A rotting seed can rapidly spread rot to the other seeds in the packet. If your seeds dry out or are dried out upon receipt, don't be alarmed. You will still get normal germination but it will take longer for them to germinate since they must rehydrate before germinating. You can speed them along simply by soaking them for 24-48 in plain water before planting. Try to keep your seeds at a constant temperature as much as possible until you are ready to plant. You don't actually have to store your seeds in the refrigerator upon receipt. But if you leave them out some may start to germinate and they will dry out and you will either need to soak them or just be prepared for a longer germination period.
Some people plant directly in the ground or in seed trays. I have had disastrous luck with these (I have cats, an irrepressible young dog and critters like squirrels and chipmunks that new beds seem to attract like a magnet) outdoors. Seed trays (other than peat trays) are great if you have a greenhouse and the room to accommodate the number of seeds you will be planting. Since I do not have a greenhouse, I prefer to plant each cross in a separate pot - I use 1/2 gal. pots for 5-6 seeds and gallon pots for seed packets of more than that. Don't put more than 8 seeds in a gallon pot. If you wait longer than 4-5 months to transplant your seedlings into the ground, you will find it difficult and time-consuming to separate the seedlings in your pot. Therefore, plan your planting schedule accordingly.
Get some good *Professional* grade potting soil. This is important - it needs to be a light, soiless or almost-soiless mix. If you have a professional growers/nursery supply place near you, you may be able to find Metromix or Fafard potting soils. If not, Home Depot and Lowe's have some professional potting mixes that are acceptable. Peat pots and germinating trays will give you problems with "damp-off", i.e. rotting at the soil line after the seed has germinated, so you want to avoid those. Fill your pots with the potting soil and water thoroughly...stick your finger down in the soil several inches to be certain that soil is wet through the pot. It may take several waterings depending on the amount of and quality of the wetting agent contained in the soil mix. Better, professional soils usually have good wetting agents. Once the soil is thoroughly damp and settled, take the eraser end of a pencil and poke holes for your seeds about 3/4-1" deep and drop your seeds into the holes. Push soil lightly around the hole to close and fill. Make certain to tag your pots! I have also found it to be a good idea to push my tag far enough in that none of the tag extends above the lip of the pot. They tend to stay where they are put and if you are using plastic tags, they are much less likely to get broken off.
Germination rates will vary...never throw a pot out in which all the seeds have not germinated for at least 3-4 months or longer if you can. Some will even come up the next year! But usually you will start to see germination within a couple of weeks. They will be fed by the seed podocarpus for a while but after they are about 4" high, give them some light fertilizer at half strength, such as Peters 24-8-12. Once they are about 6" high, cut them back to about 3-4" to encourage more root development. I germinate mine in the spring and then plant them in beds in the fall. They stay in pots until I am certain they can fend for themselves (I have cats and a newly prepared seedling bed screams "litter box" to the little darlings) and the roots are developed well enough for separation. Do not try to transplant newly germinated seedlings...no matter how careful you are, you will break the very fragile feeder roots on some of them. You can germinate in the early fall as a light frost will not hurt them. Give them another haircut when they get to be 8-10" high to again encourage root growth and crown development. If you do not plant them at this time, you will want to give them another haircut when you put them in the ground.
Good germination rates aren't very difficult to achieve as daylily seeds so readily germinate. You should get 95% germination or better on average if you have viable seed. Some crosses will germinate 100% and some 75%, depending on the cross, but your overall average should be in the 90 percentiles. Some cultivars' seeds are just not as viable as others. I have also found that pods that produce 3 seeds or less are generally less viable than more prolific crosses. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to e-mail me and I'll help you if I am able.
For those of you hybridizing yourselves, please note that germination rate will be severely affected by seeds harvested prematurely. Ideally, seed pods should be allowed to mature on the plant between 50-60 days with a decent rate being obtained between 45-49 days. It is best to wait until the matured pod has begun to split open before harvesting however not all pods will do this. Do not leave on more than 60 days - you could start seeing things either drying out or germinating inside the pod.
For those of you over-wintering newly germinated seedlings indoors, I cannot stress strongly enough how important good ventilation is during this period. Fans, be they ceiling, box or built-in wall fans in a greenhouse, or a combination of these are an absolute necessity to avoid damp-off, pest and fungal problems that can quickly kill your fragile seedlings. It is also paramount that you do not let your seedlings dry out. Put yourself on a regular watering schedule and if your seedlings begin to wilt or look poorly, check to make sure you are watering thoroughly and not just wetting the top and bottom. If you have not used a good, professional potting mix or have used a "germination medium", chances are there are no or very limited wetting agents included in the mix. I can't emphasize how important this is!
Germinating, raising and blooming your own seedlings is an addictive, worrisome, and amazingly rewarding undertaking for almost any hem lover.
Good luck and happy gardening!
Barb Allen
